Casinos, yachts, and Jacques Cousteau's sharks
Belle Époque masterpiece by Charles Garnier (who also designed the Paris Opéra). Passport required to enter. Kids under 18 can see the atrium but not the gaming rooms. Even if you don't gamble, the building alone is worth the visit.
Jacques Cousteau was director for 31 years. Shark lagoon, coral reef tanks, sea turtle recovery center, rooftop terrace overlooking the Mediterranean. Both kids will love this. Interactive touch pools on the lower level.
Official residence of the Sovereign Prince of Monaco. Changing of the guard at 11:55 AM daily — arrive by 11:30 for a good spot. State apartments open to visitors in summer.
Megayacht harbor. Boats worth more than small countries. During F1 weekend, the pit lane runs alongside the harbor. Ricki will estimate boat prices. He'll be wrong. They're more.
Ferraris, Lamborghinis, Rolls-Royces parked casually. The Café de Paris terrace is the prime people-watching spot in Monaco. Espresso is €8 and worth every cent for the show.
Walk or drive the actual F1 street circuit — the Fairmont hairpin, the tunnel, the chicane by the harbor. The track markings are visible on the road year-round.
Monaco is 2 square kilometers of concentrated absurdity. It's a country smaller than Central Park where the average apartment costs €4.5 million and the casino was built by the same architect who designed the Paris Opéra.
Morning: Prince's Palace and the changing of the guard (11:55 sharp — these things run on time). The old town (Monaco-Ville) is on a rock promontory above the sea.
The Oceanographic Museum is the real star. Cousteau ran this place for three decades. The shark lagoon, the coral reef tanks, the rooftop terrace with views that go forever. Stephanie will study the submersibles. Emily will press her face against the shark tank glass.
Afternoon: Casino Square. You don't need to gamble — just sit at Café de Paris with an espresso and watch the parade of supercars, designer bags, and sunglasses that cost more than your first car. Port Hercules for yacht-gazing. Ricki will have opinions about the prices. He'll be conservative.
Evening: walk the F1 circuit. The actual Monaco Grand Prix route runs through public streets — the tunnel, the hairpin at the Fairmont, the chicane by the harbor. The track markings are painted on the road year-round.
Nice (more affordable) or Monaco (splurge)
Monaco hotels start at €300/night for basic rooms. Nice is 20 min away and 1/3 the price. Your call.
The Oceanographic Museum has real submersibles on display. Cousteau's research vessels explored the deepest ocean trenches. The shark lagoon's filtration system processes thousands of liters per hour.
The palace, the yachts, the general fairy-tale principality vibe. Monaco is basically a Disney castle that's also a country. Plus: the shark lagoon touch pool.
Monaco is built on a cliff but has public escalators and elevators connecting every level — look for the signs. Café de Paris terrace is the perfect sit-and-watch spot. The Oceanographic Museum has elevators and is fully accessible.